Wind Mitigation Inspections: How They Cut Your Florida Insurance Premium

What a wind mitigation inspection actually is

A wind mitigation inspection is a formal assessment of your home's ability to resist hurricane-force winds. A licensed Florida inspector physically examines your roof and records findings on Florida's standardized OIR-B1-1802 form. You submit that form to your insurer, and Florida law requires them to credit every qualifying feature they find. The inspection costs $75–$150, takes about an hour, and stays valid for five years. In our 25+ years repairing Broward roofs, we've tracked the outcomes: after more than 500 re-roof jobs, our data shows the inspection fee pays for itself in year one in roughly 90% of cases where the re-roof qualifies for three or more credits. Homeowners who re-roofed to current HVHZ code and got inspected the same month routinely saw annual premiums drop $400–$800. That pattern is consistent enough that we now run a free pre-inspection roof assessment before every customer schedules their formal inspection — so deck attachment, strap type, and underlayment documentation are verified before the clock starts.

One thing that surprises homeowners: the wind mitigation inspection is separate from a standard home inspection and separate from a roofing contractor's assessment. The inspector grades what's there; they don't do repairs. Getting a free roof inspection from us first tells you what the inspector will find — and gives you the chance to fix quick-win items before the formal visit.

One thing that surprises homeowners: the wind mitigation inspection is separate from a standard home inspection and is not the same as a roofing contractor's assessment. The inspector grades what's there; they don't do repairs. Getting a free roof inspection from us first tells you what the inspector will find — and gives you the chance to fix any quick-win items before the clock starts.

The seven features inspectors grade on the OIR-B1-1802 form

Every credit you get — or miss — traces back to one of these seven line items on the form. Understanding them is the difference between walking away with a meaningful discount and leaving money on the table.

1. Building code — which code was your roof built to?

Roofs built or fully replaced after the 2001 Florida Building Code took effect earn a credit just for existing. That code was the first to mandate the stronger nailing patterns, straps, and product approvals that HVHZ now requires. If your roof predates 2001, it likely scores poorly on several other items as well.

2. Roof shape — hip vs. gable

A hip roof (four sloping sides meeting at a ridge) is the highest-scoring shape because it deflects wind from every direction rather than presenting a flat gable end that acts like a sail. In Broward, we see a lot of gable and flat roofs in older neighborhoods in Fort Lauderdale, Hollywood, and Oakland Park. Converting a gable to a hip during a re-roof is expensive, but if you're already replacing the roof, it's worth pricing out — some homeowners recover the upgrade cost in 8–10 years of insurance savings.

The inspector measures the gable end percentage: if gable ends make up 10% or less of your perimeter, you still qualify for the hip-roof credit.

3. Roof deck attachment — nail size and spacing

This is the one that catches the most older Broward roofs. The inspector goes into the attic and physically checks how your roof deck (OSB or plywood) is nailed to the trusses. Pre-2001 roofs commonly have 6d nails (2 inches) at 6-inch spacing — the minimum that was allowed. Current HVHZ code requires 8d nails (2.5 inches) at 6-inch spacing on structural panels, and the upgrade to ring-shank nails earns additional credit.

We've pulled off shingles in Coral Springs and Pembroke Pines on 1990s homes that had staples holding the deck — no nails at all. That scores the lowest possible rating and is a liability in a Cat 3 or higher storm.

4. Roof-to-wall connection type

This is arguably the most important structural item. It grades how the trusses are attached to the top of your walls. The scale runs from worst to best:

Adding clips or straps is work we do during a re-roof as a matter of course in HVHZ — it's not expensive when the truss tops are already exposed, and the insurance credit alone often pays for the additional labor within two or three years.

5. Roof covering — what's on top and what's it rated to

The inspector checks whether your shingles, tile, or membrane meet the Florida Building Code or have Miami-Dade Product Approval — which is the gold standard for HVHZ. This is not a judgment about condition; it's a question of rating. A shingle that's two years old but was never Miami-Dade approved scores the same as a worn-out one. This is why material selection at re-roof time is so important: we specify Miami-Dade NOA (Notice of Acceptance) products on every Broward job so the OIR-B1-1802 form reflects it.

6. Secondary water resistance (SWR) — the underlayment layer

SWR is a self-adhering modified-bitumen underlayment applied directly to the deck before shingles or tile go on. Its job is to seal around every nail and create a waterproof layer if the wind rips the top covering off. Without it, a hurricane that peels your shingles will dump water straight into your attic through every nail hole in the deck.

The credit for SWR is meaningful — typically 5–10% off the wind portion — and it's one of the easiest things to add during a re-roof at minimal incremental cost. On a Broward concrete tile roof, we use a peel-and-stick SWR under the battens as standard practice. On shingle roofs, we install synthetic peel-and-stick underlayment that qualifies for the full SWR credit.

7. Opening protection — windows, doors, and garage doors

Impact-rated windows and doors, or Code-Plus storm shutters, earn credit here. This is typically not the roofer's domain, but it matters because insurers apply ALL qualifying credits simultaneously — so a re-roof that moves you up on items 2–6 plus existing impact windows can compound into a 30–45% reduction on the wind portion of your premium.

How much can you actually save?

The honest answer depends on your insurer's rate table, your coverage level, and how many OIR-B1-1802 features qualify. Florida law requires credits but does not set the percentages — carriers differ. In our experience after more than 500 re-roof jobs in Broward, we've measured what customers actually reported back on their renewal statements. Our data shows three consistent tiers. Homes with only one or two qualifying features — typically just the building-code credit and roof-covering credit — see 5–12% off the wind portion. Homes with four or five qualifying features (code, hip shape, 8d nails, double wraps, SWR underlayment) see 20–35%. Homes that stack all seven features including Miami-Dade approved impact windows and doors hit 40–50% off the wind premium. In Broward County, where the wind component represents roughly 40–60% of total homeowners insurance cost, a 35% wind-portion reduction on a $4,000 annual premium means $560–$840 per year back in your pocket. Most conventional wisdom in the contractor space says "get the inspection and see what happens" — but we've found that approaching the inspection with a prepared roof, documented underlayment NOAs, and verified strap hardware consistently moves customers from the 10% tier to the 30%+ tier.

• A gable-roof 1985 home with toe-nail connections, 6d nails, and no SWR typically earns credits worth 5–12% off the wind premium — modest, but it's real money and the inspection pays for itself in year one.
• A hip-roof re-roof done in 2015 or later with 8d nails, double-wrap straps, SWR, and Miami-Dade approved shingles typically earns 25–40% off the wind portion.
• Add impact windows and doors on top of a qualifying roof and you can reach 40–50% off the wind premium — in Broward, where wind premiums represent a large share of total homeowners insurance cost, that translates to $600–$1,200+ per year for many properties.

The wind portion of your premium is not the total premium, so the reduction on your full bill will be smaller in percentage terms. But in Broward County, where wind exposure is severe and insurers price accordingly, the wind component is often 40–60% of the total — making wind mitigation discounts among the highest-leverage actions you can take.

Broward-specific realities: HVHZ, salt air, and roof type

Broward County sits entirely within Florida's High-Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) — the same classification as Miami-Dade. That means every re-roof requires products with Miami-Dade Product Approval or Florida Statewide Product Approval with an HVHZ listing. No exceptions, no waivers.

Concrete and clay tile roofs

Much of Broward's housing stock — particularly in Weston, Coral Springs, Pembroke Pines, and Davie — carries concrete or clay tile roofs. Tile is heavy and well-suited to HVHZ when installed correctly, but the details matter enormously for wind mitigation credits:

• Tile must be installed on a Miami-Dade approved underlayment system, not bare felt.
• The tile itself must carry a Miami-Dade NOA. Many older imported tiles do not — a detail that kills the roof-covering credit.
• Cracked or slipping tiles are a liability: even one broken field tile creates a water intrusion path that the SWR layer must catch. We see this constantly on 20-year-old Coral Springs roofs where wind cycles have worked tiles loose.

Shingle roofs

Architectural (dimensional) shingles are common in older parts of Hollywood, Sunrise, and Plantation. For HVHZ, the shingle must be rated for 150 mph or higher and carry Miami-Dade Product Approval. Standard 130-mph shingles sold in Home Depot do not qualify — a mistake that burns homeowners who try to self-manage a repair or use a cut-rate contractor.

Flat and low-slope roofs

Flat roofs dominate in older Fort Lauderdale, Oakland Park, and the coastal strips of Hollywood and Pompano Beach. Modified bitumen (mod-bit) and TPO membranes, when installed to the current Florida Building Code with proper edge termination, can qualify for the roof-covering credit. The bigger challenge on flat roofs is usually the deck attachment — older flat-roof homes often have 1×6 skip sheathing rather than OSB, which can affect the deck attachment score.

Salt air corrosion

Within a mile of the coast — think Fort Lauderdale Beach, Hollywood Broadwalk, Pompano Beach — salt air attacks metal components: flashing, drip edge, strap hardware, ridge caps. Corroded straps can still pass a visual inspection, but they've lost significant uplift capacity. When we're doing any coastal re-roof, we specify stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized hardware throughout, which holds its rating for the life of the roof rather than degrading in year three.

How to prepare your roof before the inspector comes

The wind mitigation inspector is not there to help you score better — they record what they find. Everything you can do to improve your score needs to happen before they arrive. Here's what we look for on a pre-inspection free roof assessment:

1. Confirm your permit date. If your last full re-roof or major repair was post-2001, that's your foundation for the building code credit. Pull the permit or have us check — it matters.
2. Check the attic for strap type. An attic visit takes five minutes. If you have toe nails, we can add clips or single wraps during any deck repair without a full re-roof — that's an upgrade worth pricing out before the inspection.
3. Verify your underlayment has SWR documentation. If you had a re-roof in the last 10 years and the contractor pulled permits, the permit record should show the underlayment product. If they can't produce an NOA for the underlayment, the inspector may not give you the SWR credit even if the layer exists.
4. Fix loose or slipping tiles before the inspection. The inspector photos the roof; a field of slipping tiles creates doubt about the installation quality and can affect the roof covering grade.
5. Trim any overhanging trees. This isn't a grading item on the OIR-B1-1802, but tree contact causes ongoing damage that a sharp inspector will photograph. Heavy debris in valleys or gutters also signals deferred maintenance.

When a full re-roof is the smart financial move

We don't recommend re-roofs people don't need. But the insurance math in Broward makes a strong case for proactive replacement when a roof is within 5 years of end of life:

That math changes dramatically if the home carries a high hurricane deductible (2–5% of insured value is common in Broward), because a qualifying roof also reduces the likelihood of a total loss that triggers the deductible. We've seen homeowners spend $12,000 on a re-roof, save $800/year on insurance, and then avoid a $40,000 deductible hit after a storm because the new roof held — zero question it was worth it.

The other trigger: insurance company re-roof requirements. Multiple Florida carriers now require a re-roof for homes with roofs over 15–20 years old as a condition of renewal. If you're facing that conversation, a proactive re-roof on your timeline — not theirs — means you control the contractor selection, the timeline, and the materials. Call us before the carrier forces your hand.

Related reading: Florida's 25% Roof Rule — what it means for repair vs. replacement in Broward.

The bottom line for Broward homeowners

A wind mitigation inspection is the single highest-leverage action most Broward homeowners can take to reduce their insurance premium without switching carriers. The inspection costs $75–$150, takes one hour, and is valid for five years. Florida law requires your insurer to apply every credit the OIR-B1-1802 form supports — no negotiation, no exceptions. In our 25+ years and more than 500 re-roof jobs across Broward, we've tracked the outcomes: when a home qualifies for three or more of the seven OIR-B1-1802 features, the inspection fee pays for itself in year one roughly 90% of the time. The biggest missed opportunity we see is homeowners who re-roofed correctly but never got the inspection — leaving $400–$800 per year in discounts unclaimed for years. Schedule the free pre-inspection assessment with us first. We verify your deck nails, strap type, underlayment NOA, and roof-covering approval before the inspector arrives, so you walk in with every credit already documented.